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The hair algae your tang is not eating MIGHT be Bryopsis, which a lot of animals will not touch. Some tangs will happily munch on it, others will ignore it. www.hawaii.edu/reefalgae/invasive_algae/chloro/bryopsis_pennata.htm
A way to treat the Bryopsis is to increase your magnesium levels way up into the 1500-1600ppm range. This can be very hard and expensive to do with normal additives. I'd personally look into MagFlake, super cheap and easy to dose.
Definitely sounds like your nitrate or phosphate levels are high.
Tap water is one source of nitrate and phosphate issues, along with overfeeding and inefficient nutrient export (live rock, sand, macro algae, skimming, etc).
Do you use tap water?
How many fish are you feeding? How much and often are you feeding them? What are you feeding them?
Could you give us a rundown of what your system is like again? Amount of LR, sand, filtration, etc.
There are a few solutions depending on the problem. Overfeeding is obvious. Cut down on the amount you feed and/or split feedings up into two or three times daily. Leftover food is horrible on tank parameters. If using frozen food, rinse the packaging liquid off before adding the food (like Mysis).
You could set up a refugium/sump to help export nutrients. Even a remote deep sandbed would work wonders! Macroalgae is an amazing way to remove nutrients, stabilize pH, and provide a food source for your fish and corals (pods). You might want to look into an overflow and set up a sump. This can be pretty inexpensive to do.
In addition to the sump, you could daisy chain two media reactors together (Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactors) and run GFO in one, carbon in the other. Or just run one with GFO to remove phosphate, I will be running both personally.
If the source is your water, look into a RO/DI system. Buckeye Field Supply makes a wonderful system that is very affordable. RO works great, RO/DI is even better. Drawback is the waste water.
As you can see, there are many causes and solutions to a high nitrate/phosphate level. We just have to narrow down the source and then go from there. What I put above is not for everyone. Not everyone needs a GFO reactor but it is a cheap (in this hobby, ~$50 is cheap) way to get rid of phosphate. One problem, a million answers!
Before doing anything, test test test. You don't want to be changing parameters and such without figuring out what is the problem. The phosphate test is somewhat expensive, read up on the Elos brand of kits as Salifert has been having issues. No idea how accurate the SeaChem test is so you might want to read up on that. The magnesium test is something any reef keeper should have anyways, normally runs $10-$15 for the Red Sea one.
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